Sunday, September 4, 2016

Red Gecko, Hoi An, Vietnam


What do tourists really want in a restaurant when they travel abroad.  Living in Hawaii, I notice that many Asian tourists gravitate to restaurants that match their culinary heritage.  This explains the large numbers of Japanese traditional and Japanese fusion selections in Waikiki and other Hawaii tourist locations.  But if you are an American going to a place like Vietnam, it would truly be a crime if all you ate is hamburgers and french fries….  Or if you only wanted to go to fancy schmancy and overpriced restaurants that have table cloths and views of the river – you might as well just stay home.  So - be brave and adventuresome.

The food in Vietnam is fresh and healthy and the produce and meats are provided by local farmers selling their food at local markets.  And I promise that there is a taste to satisfy any palate.

Eating at Red Gecko was truly a unique experience.  Located off the beaten track, the restaurant’s physical appearance would not attract any following. Glowing Tripadvisor reviews sparked our curiosity and our experience mirrored these recent reviews. We had spring rolls, a wonderful local noodle dish – Cao Lau, grilled whole fish and my favorite local brew, called Larue.  They were all outstanding!

When we arrived at the restaurant, we were immediately greeted by Be who treated me like a long lost brother.  She was a tiny person, the remarkable product of a premature birth with a birthweight of 1kgm, a miracle of survival by any measure, considering what I would imagine the intensive care facilities to be in Hoi An 28 years ago. She was very friendly, and quickly began hugging me and hovering over us to respond to our requests and demonstrate the best and sincerest of customer service. In another life if I had been born a Vietnamese in Hoi An, she could have been one of the babies I took care of assuming my past history as a practicing neonatologist. Indeed, her warmth and affection mirrored one of appreciation for the care I would have ostensibly provided when she was in the intensive care neonatal unit.  Her brother – Rin was the meticulous cook and family members, her taller younger sister, and other relatives including an assortment of children were romping around the street with the adults huddled at the narrow street’s edge, encroaching on other passerby pedestrians, bicyclers, and motorbikes that were vying to gain passage.   

The grilled fish that we ordered was prepared by one of the uncles who carried out a large grill with piping hot coals to the street fronting the restaurant, just across from the family stronghold.  Then the fish came out, wrapped in foil to be cooked in front of our eyes.  This process took at least 20 minutes but the product was spectacular.  It was a whole fish, white and tender, filleted and ready to eat, and in the end, more than enough to eat for the two of us. 

With family members and children and cooks and helpers abound, we had plenty of entertainment to hold our interest.  Almost enough to lessen the saturating effects of the sweltering heat and humidity invading every inch of skin, with perspiration soaking through our every item of clothing without shame.  The air was hot, heavy and moist; it was a labor to breathe.  We did ask for and were granted one of their electric fans to be positioned blowing hot air onto our faces. Not sure if that helped or made things worse.  But we learn to live with what we have to live with.  In the scheme of things, I would NEVER have frequented a restaurant like this in the US. NEVER! In Vietnam, it was an adventure, a gastronomic experience worthy of the inconvenience and discomfort of the heat of the day.  Unlike the hundreds of copy-cat restaurants that lack distinction or charm, this Red Gecko restaurant experience is one that I will long remember.   

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