Saturday, April 5, 2014

Otavalo Indigenous Culture, A lovely Hacienda, Roses & More Roses

The morning began earlier than anyone wanted with a long drive into the countryside.  Was worth it! Had breakfast at a private hacienda, particularly loving the "humitas" which tasted like delicate corn muffins without all of the fattening butter gluing it all together.  Worked off the calories touring the family rose growing business which employes 250 workers efficiently growing, cutting, packaging and shipping the most beautiful assortment of roses that I have ever seen - to every conceivable country in the world. I mean there were roses everywhere, more roses than I thought existed at one time in the world! Apparently, the Russians are the fussiest of customers and get charged 30% more than what they send to the less discriminating American market. We sure got a big dose of rose gardening....maybe the Obama's would learn something about economies of scale if they visited this place.

Then we completed the drive to the Saturday Craft Open Market at Otavalo, where we were relieved of most of our money.  Of course, I had to buy a Panama hat, of fine quality it cost only $20.  And you can roll it up and store it in its balsa wood packing box knowing that it will regain its original pristine shape the moment you relieve it of its constricting isolation.  We didn't stop there.....colorful local art works, purses, pocket books, belts, more pocket books and more pocket books rounded out the afternoon of spending.  Lunch at another fine restaurant where we were seated under a dome painted with a picture of an angel, arm stretched forward holding a guinea pig. Not sure whether the guinea pig was leading the way or whether the angel was protecting the guinea pig.  The guinea pig (quwi) indeed has enigmatic status and position in Ecuador and Peru where it is both revered with almost mystical attributes, while at the same time eaten as common food in many parts of both countries. 

It was a truly enjoyable day,  the craft market provided a venue for my middle eastern genes to express their bargaining nature in the controlled maze of an open market filled to the brim with locals trying to sell their wares.  Unlike other open markets, the Ecuadorians were pleasant but eager to sell their products, would bargain some.....to a limit.... but were not stubborn, obnoxious or overbearing in their plight.  In fact, it was almost too easy.  And to a certain point, I was happy to pay what I thought was a fair price, without going into a bargaining tirade of back and forth haggling trying to save two dollars to those who clearly are living at a near subsistence level.  

I sometimes embarrass myself with the bargaining I do merely as sport to save what means nothing to me and everything to the local vendors.  Once in Viet Nam, I bargained and bargained and bargained and finally got my way in buying 5 figurines for the price of 3.  As I delivered the money and felt the pride of winning that battle, my pride was suddenly overcome by a sense of nausea - that in winning the battle of wit, I lost any sense of compassion for this obviously poor countryman where every dollar he earns feeds his family for another day.  The pang of shame and hurt quickly brought me to my senses and I gave him the extra dollars he deserved and we happily parted ways.

Tomorrow is the last day in Quito, and I hope to write the next chapter in this wonderful adventure. In the meantime, I have to admit that the pictures below were not taken by me but by one of our travel companions, Frances who is an artist in more than one art form.  
















No comments:

Post a Comment