What do tourists really want in a restaurant when they travel abroad. Living in Hawaii, I notice that many Asian tourists gravitate to restaurants that match their culinary heritage. This explains the large numbers of Japanese traditional and Japanese fusion selections in Waikiki and other Hawaii tourist locations. But if you are an American going to a place like Vietnam, it would truly be a crime if all you ate is hamburgers and french fries…. Or if you only wanted to go to fancy schmancy and overpriced restaurants that have table cloths and views of the river – you might as well just stay home. So - be brave and adventuresome.
The food in Vietnam is fresh and healthy and the produce and
meats are provided by local farmers selling their food at local markets. And I promise that there is a taste to satisfy any palate.
Eating at Red Gecko was truly a unique experience. Located off the beaten track, the restaurant’s
physical appearance would not attract any following. Glowing Tripadvisor reviews sparked our
curiosity and our experience mirrored these recent reviews. We had spring rolls, a wonderful local noodle dish – Cao Lau, grilled whole
fish and my favorite local brew, called Larue.
They were all outstanding!
When we arrived at the restaurant, we were immediately
greeted by Be who treated me like a long lost brother. She was a tiny person, the remarkable product
of a premature birth with a birthweight of 1kgm, a miracle of survival by any measure, considering what I would imagine the intensive care facilities to be in Hoi An
28 years ago. She was very friendly, and
quickly began hugging me and hovering over us to respond to our requests and
demonstrate the best and sincerest of customer service. In another life if I had
been born a Vietnamese in Hoi An, she could have been one of the babies I took
care of assuming my past history as a practicing neonatologist. Indeed, her warmth and affection mirrored one of
appreciation for the care I would have ostensibly provided when she was in the
intensive care neonatal unit. Her
brother – Rin was the meticulous cook and family members, her taller younger
sister, and other relatives including an assortment of children were romping around
the street with the adults huddled at the narrow street’s edge, encroaching on
other passerby pedestrians, bicyclers, and motorbikes that were vying to gain
passage.
The grilled fish that we ordered was prepared by one of the
uncles who carried out a large grill with piping hot coals to the street
fronting the restaurant, just across from the family stronghold. Then the fish came out, wrapped in foil to be
cooked in front of our eyes. This
process took at least 20 minutes but the product was spectacular. It was a whole fish, white and tender, filleted
and ready to eat, and in the end, more than enough to eat for the two of
us.
With family members and children and cooks and helpers
abound, we had plenty of entertainment to hold our interest. Almost enough to lessen the saturating effects
of the sweltering heat and humidity invading every inch of skin,
with perspiration soaking through our every item of clothing without shame. The air was hot, heavy and moist; it was a
labor to breathe. We did ask for and were
granted one of their electric fans to be positioned blowing hot air onto our
faces. Not sure if that helped or made things worse. But we learn to live with what we have to
live with. In the scheme of things, I would
NEVER have frequented a restaurant like this in the US. NEVER! In Vietnam, it
was an adventure, a gastronomic experience worthy of the inconvenience and
discomfort of the heat of the day. Unlike
the hundreds of copy-cat restaurants that lack distinction or charm, this Red
Gecko restaurant experience is one that I will long remember.
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